La Paris del Sur, its denizens call it. The Paris of the South. And for a few brief moments, you might actually be taken in. Those wide central boulevards, for example: they certainly feel European, with their Art Deco apartment buildings and dusky ground-floor shops. Likewise those cafes, with their old men waving their endless […]
Slow, sleepy Colonia del Sacramento, on the Uruguayan side of the Río de la Plata, looks like a town where nothing ever happens. But Ruben Collado knows better. “Bueno, it happened in 1763, during the Seven Years’ War. The Lord Clive was a pirate ship that came here intending to capture the port at Colonia, […]
Her story was known everywhere even before it was finished, and no wonder—since it sprang not from mere life, but from the timelessness of Latin American myth. The humble, illegitimate birth near Los Toldos, on a dusty ranch on the Argentine pampas. The scandal at her father’s funeral, when her mother was briefly allowed to […]
A lone rider, silhouetted against the bleak expanse of the endless pampas. Night is falling; he works quickly to corral the last cattle inside the estancia’s huge pastures. No division exists between himself and the horse he sits. His only possessions he carries with him: mate gourd, saddle, poncho, ornate silver knife. In the failing […]
Like all mega-metropolises, Buenos Aires, Argentina is home to neighborhoods as varied as their names indicate. There’s Recoleta, Retiro, La Boca, and Puerto Madero. There’s the microcenter, downtown, and Abasto. Upon first arrival, I loved the cobblestone streets and graffiti artwork. Each day, I would visit a new barrio and experience an incredibly different vibe. After three weeks of […]
