Now that the U.S. has reopened its embassy in Cuba, more Americans are lining up to visit this Caribbean nation than at any time since the Cold War. What they’re seeing is a revelation. From the 1950s autos and mile-long seawall of Havana to the salsa and son rhythms pulsing through the sweaty alleys of Santiago, from the French accents of Cienfuegos’s waterfront to the oxcarts and tobacco fields of the Viñales Valley, this island has never lost its paradisiacal loveliness. Our People to People cultural exchange program affords a privileged glimpse of an exotic world hidden for far too long.